Since our initial meal at Ti-a Pol six months ago, I’ve been smitten by the tapas craze, and without much notice, this small restaurant on 10th Avenue has usurped Tabla as my favored dining spot in all of New York City.
I was unaware of any small-plate dish that could surpass Floyd Cardoz’s boondhi raita until I tasted Alex Raij’s garbanzos fritos. Although it saddens me to move on from my obsession with Bread Bar, my love for these chickpeas is so strong that I implore you to stop whatever you’re doing and go try them immediately. If necessary, book a flight and endure a forty-minute wait just to sit at the bar. These chickpeas will outshine any previous favorite bar snack you’ve had, leaving it in the dust. Brace yourself for a rapid and intense addiction.
After indulging in the flavorful patatas bravas and pimientos de padron, not to mention the amazing Ti-a Pol sangria, a friend recommended that I check out The New Spanish Table. My husband, a book addict, took three or four trips to Barnes and Noble before finally remembering to pick it up, bringing us to this weekend. Though I know I did other things during that time, such as attending a dinner party, buying a new dress, and watching a movie, all I really recall is immersing myself in this cookbook and realizing how long it took me to discover the cuisine that features many of my favorite foods – eggs, potatoes, chickpeas, smoky paprika, and cured pork – and hardly coming up for air.
I have refrained from trying to make tortilla patata because I have yet to find a recipe that calls for less than one cup of olive oil. As someone who is conscious of her body image, like many others, consuming large amounts of fat, even if it is deemed “healthy” fat, can be daunting. However, my desire to conquer this dish led me to approach it meticulously, measuring the oil used in the recipe. To my surprise, the entire dish only required four tablespoons of oil, and probably even less, as excess oil remained in my Dutch oven. Though not exactly low-fat, it was not as big of a deal as I initially thought. I tackled this on a Saturday morning, only to discover that it takes some time to make.
I’m happy to report that this tortilla was just as delicious as any I’ve had in a restaurant, and we enjoyed it both warm and cold throughout the weekend. It seems to pair perfectly with just about anything, whether it’s a small tomato salad, brunch coffee, white wine with lunch, or even a forthcoming lentil salad! You could also pair it with nuts, cheese, or fruit. I even had to fend off my husband with a fork because I didn’t want to share it! He said, “But I bought you the book! Please?” and I responded with a muffled “no” or “nmnnmmwnah” because my mouth was full. I mean, it won’t improve your character, but it will definitely fill you up!
Additionally, the recipe book features a sidebar discussing Ferran Adrià’s tortilla de patatas, which he supposedly prepares using potato chips. According to Adrià, the original recipe requires too much effort for home cooking, and so he recommends using crispy and crunchy potato chips fried in olive oil as a substitute. However, Pringles are not suitable for this purpose. Ximena from Lobstersquad provides an insightful explanation of this technique and also includes a delightful illustration illustrating the proper way to flip the tortilla.
A year ago, I enjoyed a Summer-Squash Soup with Parsley Mint Pistou. Now, let me introduce you to the Potato Tortilla, also known as Tortilla de Patatas or Tortilla Espa?ola. This dish is one of my absolute favorites, and I have made some changes to the recipe over the years. In August 2013, I modified the original recipe by using less olive oil, cooking the potatoes and onions together, eliminating the strange addition of 2 tablespoons of chicken broth, adding some weights to the ingredients, and simplifying the instructions. Later, in September 2017, I included some fresh photos of the dish, captured with the help of my two-year-old assistant who was eagerly waiting for dinner while I cooked.
Preferred methods of consumption: Paired with tomato bread or combined in a spread with other beloved Spanish cuisine. Served hot in triangular portions with a side salad (possibly including jamón serrano) for dinner. Eaten cold as triangular portions with a side salad for lunch. Cubed and offered with toothpicks as a party snack or as part of a cheese course. Utilized as a sandwich filling on a crusty baguette with aioli. You can trust me on this.
You could incorporate various ingredients into this dish – chopped greens, strips of red pepper, a few scoops of peas – however, it is my wish that you refrain from doing so. A flawless dish made with only five ingredients is a precious rarity and should not be tampered with.
3-4 Yukon Gold potatoes (1 1/4 – 1 1/2 pounds)
1 small onion
1 cup of olive oil
6 extra-large or 7 large eggs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper (do not skimp)
Instructions:
Peel the potatoes and onion and slice them very thinly using a mandoline, the slicing blade of a food processor, or by hand. If they are on the larger side, first cut them in half lengthwise so the slices will be in half-moons.
Instructions for cooking potatoes and onions: Preheat 1-2 tablespoons of oil in a nonstick skillet (ideally 8-10 inches) on medium-high heat for around 3 minutes until very hot. Add potatoes and onions in an even layer and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook for approximately 15 minutes while flipping and moving around the potatoes to guarantee even cooking. The potatoes should be cooked until tender when poked with a knife but should not become overly browned or break apart during flipping (unless you prefer softer, more fragmented potatoes for your tortillas).
Drain the potatoes and onions by placing them in a colander set over a bowl. Season with salt and pepper and allow them to cool for approximately 5 minutes. [In the meantime, prepare your salad or start cracking your eggs…]
To prepare the tortilla batter, beat eggs lightly with a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper in the bottom of a large bowl. Mix in the drained potatoes and onions. It is recommended to let them soak for 10 minutes to ensure a firm tortilla, but it is optional if you are in a hurry. Skipping this step will not affect the final outcome of the dish.
To cook the tortilla, heat 2 tablespoons of the drained cooking oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Pour the potato mixture into the skillet and use a spatula to flatten the potatoes until they are mostly even. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook by moving and shimmying the skillet and nudging the egg around so that it runs underneath for a minute. Then, allow the tortilla to cook undisturbed until the top is wet but not very runny, and the underside is golden.
Place the skillet back on the stove and cook the tortilla to achieve your desired level of doneness. Cook for an additional 2-3 minutes if you prefer the center to be slightly runny (try it out and see if you want to change it), or cook for 3-4 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out dry for a fully cooked tortilla.
Presentation: Arrange the slices on a plate and serve as wedges. The dish can be enjoyed hot, cold, or at room temperature, either plain or with a sprinkle of smoked paprika and a drizzle of aioli or mayo.
*Store the remaining portion in the refrigerator for future use in tortillas, eggs, potatoes, or any dish that would benefit from a subtle onion flavor.
