We have made the decision to spend an extensive amount of time at the beach this summer, resulting in a new favorite pastime of mine: reading through several cookbooks that I’ve been meaning to delve into, while en route. During the rare instances when the children are not bickering in the backseat, and the traffic is manageable, I find myself more receptive to trying new recipe ideas. These moments are brief, and occur after I have been distanced from work and my kitchen for a substantial amount of time, leaving me more open-minded and curious towards fresh inspiration. I am not as inclined to experiment during hectic periods of deadlines and when hunger is at its peak, typically around 6:15 pm when supper has yet to be prepared.
Ilene Rosen, chef and co-owner of R&D Foods in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, and former savory chef at City Bakery, recently released her cookbook “Saladish,” which I discovered two weekends ago. Rosen’s salad bar at City Bakery had a devoted following, and this book is a natural progression. In the introduction, Rosen explains that all the food she loves to eat and make is saladish. I can relate to this, as I consider salads to be meals and meals to be salads, with leafy greens being just a fraction of the possibilities. A saladish meal may include layers of grains, roasted or raw shaved vegetables, something pickled or punchy, something crunchy and herby, finished with a good vinaigrette. Just thinking about it made me hungry again, even though I had lunch only 15 minutes ago.
I had some difficulty with the book as I progressed since I frequently encountered ingredients that I didn’t have on hand. Pappadum, green garlic, makrut lime leaves, Chinese preserved cabbage, pea greens- and to be honest, this is just the tip of the iceberg. Every recipe seemed to require an additional grocery run (which is easy for me to do in NYC, but I’m a little lazy, and even when I do go out, I know you all would appreciate if I found alternatives). However, please don’t go just yet. The sun was shining through the windows, small puffs of clouds dotted a perfectly blue sky, and seaside towns were coming into view. I decided to stop being so difficult and focus on the positives – many of these ingredients were merely accents or add-ons. At the bottom of each recipe, I discovered a dozen things that I was eager to try.
There is an abundance of innovation and inspiration within the pages of this book that would be a shame to overlook due to a few obstacles in acquiring ingredients. This is particularly true if you are hoping to revamp your salad game. Salads are inherently adaptable and experimentation is encouraged. If you are unable or unwilling to obtain particular ingredients mentioned in this book, simply prepare the components that pique your interest. Following this approach, I quickly whipped up the roasted and pickled cauliflower salad within three days. I also became smitten with the charred summer squash salad (you’ll see why when you read it), planned a meal around the Vietnamese-style tofu salad, and another around a potato-cucumber salad with a grainy texture. Additionally, I raved about the unapologetic “I heart fennel” salad, which expresses my love for the underappreciated (except by me) vegetable from stem to bulb.
This watermelon salad puts a modern twist on the classic watermelon and feta salad. Unlike the version in the book that includes chrysanthemum leaves and shiso, this recipe features toasted pepitas, matchsticks of ricotta salata (which is softer and milder than feta), and triangular watermelon slices. The author includes cutting guides for various vegetables, though thinly sliced cucumbers work perfectly in this salad. A drizzle of olive oil, sea salt, and black pepper complete the dish, resulting in a simple yet refreshing new classic. This recipe is a testament to the power of a great cookbook, offering unexpected and delicious flavor combinations that even experienced home cooks will appreciate.
Rewritten:
In the past:
– One year ago: Grilled Pepper and Torn Mozzarella Panzanella and Crispy Spiced Lamb and Lentils.
– Two years ago: The Consummate Chocolate Chip Cookie, Revisited and Charred Eggplant and Walnut Pesto Pasta Salad.
Picnic Pink Lemonade and Crispy Frizzled Artichokes were enjoyed three years ago.
Coconut Brown Butter Cookies and Pasta and Fried Zucchini Salad were prepared and relished four years ago.
Five years ago, Rhubarb Cream Cheese Hand Pies and Bowties with Sugar Snaps, Lemon, and Ricotta were savored.
Six years ago: Asparagus served with almond and yogurt dressing, and biscuits filled with strawberries and cream.
Seven years ago: Fudge popsicles and Dobos Torte.
Eight years ago: Rustic rhubarb tarts, scrambled egg on toast, and Strawberry Brown Butter Bettys.
Nine years ago: Grilled Shrimp Cocktail, Graham Crackers, and Pesto Potato Salad with Green Beans
Ten years ago: Breakfast Apricot Crisp and Dead Simple Slaw
Eleven years ago: Zucchini Carpaccio Salad and Black-Bottom Cupcakes
And from the opposite side of the globe:
Half a Year Ago: Toasted Walnut Endive Salad
1.5 Years Ago: Spinach Quiche on a Sheet Pan and Almonds with Chocolate Caramel Crunch
2.5 Years Ago: Breakfast Squares Made of Dates and Pecorino Biscuits with Parsley
3.5 years ago, I made cranberry pie with a thick pecan crumble and twice-baked potatoes with kale.
4.5 years ago, I cooked cauliflower with brown butter crumbs and parsley leaf potatoes.
Today, I present a recipe for watermelon cucumber salad that serves four and takes 15 minutes to prepare. This recipe is adapted generously from Saladish.
Ingredients:
– 1/4 of a large seedless watermelon or 1 small (mini) watermelon
– 2 small seedless cucumbers (Persian-style), thinly sliced
– 8 ounces of ricotta salata, cut into matchsticks
– 1/4 cup of toasted, salted pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds)
– Olive oil, for drizzling
– Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
To prepare a small watermelon, slice it in half and lay the cut side down. Cut each half into eight pie-shaped slices, remove the rind, and slice each wedge into 1/2-inch thick triangles. For a bigger watermelon, cut it into smaller wedges and then remove the rind before slicing it into 1/2-inch thick triangles.
Arrange watermelon triangles in a thick layer on a big platter. Follow it with a comparatively thinner layer of cucumbers, matchsticks of ricotta salata, and pepitas. Lightly drizzle some olive oil and then add some salt and pepper to season. Repeat this rustic layering and seasoning process until all the ingredients are used up and finish with a generous drizzle of olive oil. Serve and consume immediately!
