Several times per year, I embark on a Dinner Intervention, which may sound relatively mild but is actually quite forceful. It may give the impression of a friendly suggestion like, “Hey sweetheart, let’s switch up our dinner routine this week,” but the reality is more along the lines of, “Ugh, I cannot stand another takeaway meal or hastily thrown-together dish! Enough is enough!” At that point, I figuratively throw my spatula down and insist that we improve.
I am not skilled at cooking dinner; my forte lies in side dishes and tapas-style meals (a humorous assortment of fridge leftovers). Though I am proficient in making pancakes, slaws, and potatoes, I am far from achieving the Holy Grail of home-cooked dinner – putting food on the table regularly. Given the convenience of having delicious salads, hummus platters, and thin-crust pizzas delivered at a moment’s notice, I question the need to go through the hassle of broiling.
I have a favorite solution for those who don’t know what to cook for dinner: add an egg. It’s a go-to strategy for me whenever I feel stuck. “I cooked creamed chard and spring onions. What’s next?” or “I have ramps in the fridge. How can I incorporate them into tonight’s meal?” No matter what the situation, a fried egg paired with some crusty bread can make any dish suitable for dinner. A spicy tomato stew transforms into a shakshuka, a warm mushroom salad turns into a hearty entree, ginger fried rice becomes a memorable meal that you’ll still crave months later, and even basic potatoes become a star main course.
Last night, we attempted a lighter version of hash with crunchy New Jersey asparagus. It was satisfying enough as a late dinner that we didn’t even need bread. I’ve been experimenting with reinventing hash since trying a delicious but heavy version with shredded short ribs last winter. With the arrival of spring (or summer, thanks to the upper-80s scattered storms humidity this week), few things are more welcome than a one-pan meal that helps me use up my local farmers market finds without having to turn on the oven.
Slice the cleaned ramps thinly and separate the bulbs and greens. Cook the bulbs in butter or oil on low heat until they are soft and caramelized, which will take about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the greens and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and spread the mixture on a piece of toast. For an even more delicious sandwich, add a thin slice of Canadian bacon on top of the toast before adding the ramps. If you have grated gruyère or goat cheese, sprinkle that on top as well. Fry an egg and enjoy the most delicious open-faced breakfast or dinner sandwich ever! Give it a try!
One year ago: I cooked the Endive and Celery Salad with Fennel Vinaigrette, which was the first meal I prepared in my current apartment.
Two years ago: I made Dulce de Leche Ice Cream.
Three years ago: I baked the Corniest Corn Muffins.
For this spring season, I suggest trying the Asparagus Pancetta Hash.
I acknowledge that I repeat this often, but it’s genuinely a malleable recipe. The main concept is a hash cooked entirely on one pan, which is less heavy than typical versions and has a lot of texture. It doesn’t matter whether you use yellow potatoes or Russets, slab bacon or pancetta, asparagus or other vegetables that pique your interest at the market. You don’t even have to add an egg to it if you’re in the mood for broiled salmon or grilled cutlets tonight. Nevertheless, it’s still delicious as is, and I suspect it’ll become a regular weekend morning meal. You might even hear my husband cheering in the background, he gets quite thrilled by any cured pork products.
Yields sufficient topping for four servings of fried eggs.
Dice 1/4 pound pancetta (a type of cured pork that is less salty than prosciutto and is not smoked like bacon) into pieces that are 1/4-inch in size.
Peel and dice 1 pound of Yukon gold potatoes into 1/2-inch pieces.
1 small onion, finely chopped
8 oz asparagus, tough ends removed and cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt and pepper, to taste
Serving suggestions: Fried eggs, spoonfuls of goat cheese, and sliced green onions.
Preheat a 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium heat. Cook the pancetta, regularly turning it to ensure it browns and becomes crispy on all sides, which should take around 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove it and place it on paper towels to drain. Keep the heat on, making use of the remaining fat in the pan. (If you’re using a well-seasoned cast iron skillet, the fat remaining in the pan should suffice to cook the rest of the hash. However, if you’re not using cast iron, you may need to add up to a tablespoon of oil. In case you have omitted the pork, you’ll require two tablespoons of oil to begin.)
Place the potatoes into the frying pan and allow them to cook undisturbed for a few minutes. Take this opportunity to season them generously with salt and pepper. Once they have developed a light brown crust on the bottom, start flipping and rotating them, giving them a chance to cook for a few more minutes each time. Remember, the goal is not to struggle with the potatoes in the pan. By leaving them alone for a bit at the beginning, they become easier to flip, and you’re one step closer to achieving an even, golden-brown color.
Once the potatoes have crisped and browned to about three-fourths of your desired level, usually taking a total of 15 minutes, proceed to add the onion. I recommend adding it at this point rather than earlier, as it tends to burn before the potatoes are fully cooked. Continue cooking for an additional 5 minutes. Then, introduce the asparagus, cover the pan, and cook for another 5 to 8 minutes until it reaches a crispy texture. Note that thinner asparagus will only need 5 minutes, whilst thicker asparagus will require more time. Once done, remove the lid, put the pancetta back into the pan to reheat for one minute. Afterward, taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary before serving promptly.
